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 Post subject: Luthier Tool Neck Jig
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 8:15 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 11:08 pm 
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You have the 19 page instruction booklet?

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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 11:52 pm 
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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 6:36 am 
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Any use? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVVNB0z4J_c
(Didn't have much time to look at it)
Sure looks complicated.

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:03 am 
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I have it and like it a lot. I'm doing mortise and tenon joints, but some of it applies regardless. I do so many different scales because of the number of baritones and basses I do, I can't get it set up for just guitars. My approach is to first flush trim the end of the neck to the approximate angle as indicated by the jig -- this is getting the axial adjustment set on the Yaw adjustment, as well as the pitch. I remove the neck and check its alignment and pitch. I make an adjustment and try it again if it isn't really close. Once I'm happy, I'll cut the tenon.

Having tried both the Woolson jig and the Simpson, this is simply better and more predictable. It does take some time to get dialed in. The more consistent you are in your body building and in particular the neck to body area, the easier things will be.


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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 8:27 am 
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I have one and struggled with it also. Back in February I was promised a video tutorial but nothing ever came of it. He makes a good tool but I agree, instructions suck.


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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 9:56 am 
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For the cost of that jig I think he owes it to his customers to hire a good technical writer to write a user friendly manual otherwise I'd be raising red flags all over the place.

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 1:53 pm 
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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 5:57 pm 
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I struggled with it at first, thought I had it and then had to relearn it. Last time I used it in November, it was very consistent for two guitars. DBerkowitz is right, it just takes a long time to dial it in. I had it all written down someplace, sorry can't find it. Been since November since I have been in the shop.


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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 6:38 pm 
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Ah, the edge vice. Call Chris and have him trade you the outer two dogs for a pair of the longer ones for cutaways. Sheesh. I thought he would have resolved this, but apparently not. He has a longer pair that come in and can grab the edge of the body on the cutaway.

As for the pins, he offers different sized pins. If you need 3/8" ones he can provide you with those. They're turned down and threaded to replace the ones you have now. I got ones turned down to match my truss rod. Simple fix.


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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 6:53 pm 
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Someone here informed the owners of Luthier Tool that I was personally trashing them. So I'm deleting all my comments. I can only imagine who might have done that.

Thanks. It's my own fault. I was tired and frustrated and a long weekend shot as I had planned to cut necks. Now I can't. And now I'm stuck.


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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:20 pm 
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I would also recommend if you own any of their stuff, and u said anything questionable, u might want to delete it. I didn't mean for this to happen, I was tired and frustrated. I am sorry for forgetting to be civil. Now, what do I do?


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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:40 pm 
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I will say for the record that the device is wonderfully engineered. I have used the edge vise for a lot of end grafts. Love it. Maybe once they send me the parts I can get someone here to help me through it. To the person who misrepresented my comments to Chris and Glenda, not nice. This isn't grade school. If u have a problem with me or something I said, pm me and I'll listen like a grownup and fix my mistakes. We all screw up from time to time. The relationship I had with Chris and Glenda is now in ruins.


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 8:05 am 
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Contact chris to resolve problems , he seems reasonable , and affable


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 8:34 am 
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Thanks Ernie.

DBerkowitz, could you post a picture the larger dogs?


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 10:31 am 
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Since I don't have a picture account anywhere, and they won't let me link from my own page, that's problematic. The longer dogs are more like 1.5 or 1.75" long and extend toward the center line of the edge vice, thereby allowing you to clamp onto the recurve of the cutaway. They're the same dimensions, otherwise.


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 11:53 am 
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Ok, I found your website Dave. If u can post a pic there, that would be great. I'm assuming you've used it, and found it to be secure? Seems odd putting tension on dogs that have become lever arms of a sort. That's if I got this pictured correctly. I've set up a practice neck and going to try it out now.


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 2:44 pm 
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So, my 5/8" template guide was too deep. 1/2", so I ground that down to 7/32". Enough to protect template and give the collet something to bite on. Set bit extension to 1" beyond guide extension. Then adjusted everything to make the proper tenon cut. Here's a picture. What can I learn from this? I wasn't expecting the piece at the bottom to remain. How do u deal with this? The actual necks are pretty much the size u see here.


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 3:13 pm 
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I put a rough taper in the neck just before routing it. You need all that heel? What's left can be rough sawn on the bandsaw and hand filed.


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 10:51 pm 
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Well, it is indeed a part of the design. Guess I'll need to order a custom template that lets me rout further "south". Round over heels (without taper) are not uncommon.


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 3:00 am 
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Something like this:

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=45140#p597165



Regards,


Edzard


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 7:31 am 
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Yeah, that's pretty much what I need except in a DT template.

I'm a little worried about fit now after reading that thread. My tenon is more like .7" tall, not 1". I'm worried because the necks have already been built. Is it the intent for the tenon to be 1"?


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 9:39 am 
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Mike, in the other thread where we are discussing tenon length, I was referring to the length of the tenon top-to-back, not depth.


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 10:24 am 
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OK, in other words, height. I was worried for a moment. Thanks Ken

As a side note, regarding the picture above. I did that straight from my iPhone. First time I've tried that. I have a free app called Image Size which I set the output to 600x400. It converted just fine, small enough to attach here and still look good. No Tap-A-Talk or desktop used.


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 10:33 am 
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Haans wrote:
I put a rough taper in the neck just before routing it. You need all that heel? What's left can be rough sawn on the bandsaw and hand filed.


It's not a matter of need. I'm building according to a plan, an it is the look I am after. I think a number of builders have popularized it with their router approach to carving necks as well. It would seem to me a more versatile set of templates would like this one: (hope no one minds me reposting that, seemed easier to have the picture here)


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